Paris to Pyrenees to Pamplona

PARIS

Paris was a lot of fun, 2 operas, a club concert, a few museums and big headliners like the Eiffel Tower and Catacombs. The food was wonderful, the prices outrageous, the weather brisk but sunny, the subway system fast, cheap and efficient. You could walk to your heart´s content, then just subway to whatever the next place was.

The hostel was big and noisy, as expected. Going to bed at 1:00 AM pretty much made me the first one in bed. The hostal served breakfast of coffee, cereal and croissants, which is a hell of a nice way to start the day. Got to finish the days playing foosball with different groups. Nothing like a little competition and beer to loosen things up.

The subways in Paris ran about every 4 minutes. Amazing. Even during rush hour, the pace was congenial. The French know how to do things, get up late, work a bit, siesta or hang out in a cafe, then head out again later for a late supper. Work about 10 months a years and call it a good life.


PYRENEES

Flew Ryanair down to Pau, then trained to St. Jean Pied de Port (start of Camino). Arrived in town at 8 PM, and by 10:00 had got my Pilgrim credentials (to stay in cheap 6€ hostals), a place to stay a Pilgrim meal and a new buddy Paul from Canada.

I start with about 30+ others, but for most, it is the last time we see each other as everyone moves at different speeds and may stay at different Aubergues. Today I see my French buddy Louis for first time since 4 dyas, while Andre (40 kms a day man from Quebec..on his 4th Camino) is way ahead somewhere.

There are people from all over Europe, a few Japonese, Phillipinos, Australians, South Africans, North America. Today, I walked for a bit with Standal from Czech.

The first day was 27 kms with a 5000 ft climb, multiple snow passes, followed by a 200 ft drop. The beer at the first hostal is to be compared with any in my life. Supper was a table of 8 Pilgrims. with a bit of wine and mostly English spoken.



PAMPLONA

Pamplona came too early in the middle of a long 40 kms day to make a long stop. A gorgeous old city with all those winding streets and hopefully well-placed little doorway should you get caught in the path of a running bull (July).

The picture is the original gate to the city and was considered the doorway to France

I ended up the day in a little village with a great bar and has calamari and beer for dinner.



CAMINO

The Camino path is very well marked. It means that I only need the book to look for places to stop-stay. I never really know where i am, just that I am on the trail. After the big Pyrenees climb, the rest of the hike is basically rolling hills. The continuous up and down does wear on the feet however.

The refugious are a mixed bag, but every village has at least one and some sort og restaurant that serves a Pilgrim meal at around 10€. The winter weight bag is working out well so far, as the places are heated minimally at best. Been averaging dorms of 16-20 people so far and hottish showers at each stop.

FOOD

I´m eating well. Not a lot of control over what I eat or when I eat it, but after a few days,I get my fill. You body doesn´t care that much, as you as it gets carbos, fat and protein.

My basic day is breakast at refugio or in village (cafe con leche, pastry or bread, maybe an apple). Mid-morning is yogurt and more fruit. Lunch is bread and cheese, maybe a beer. Supper is soup or salad, usually fish in olive oil, more bread, some wine and maybe a dessert. All in all, a good way to get thru the day


GEAR

Basically pleased with my gear. The mornings and evenings are quite chilly, but most of the day, I am in shorts and a light wool top from MEC that zips from the top of my neck to my navel, which gives it quite a range of temperature. The winter weight bag and clothes suck up mucho space in the pack and it is full, but makes it a tad clunky. Compared to other hikers, I am in the middle for pack size.

Laundry is tough, as you are only in each place one night and usually only after 4:00 PM. Not much time to air-dry stuff. Had my undies hanging off my pack today. Will take a rest day in a few days and do a real laundry

HEADSPACE

As with any trip, the freedom to be travelling and healthy cannot be under-estimated. This particular trip is quite physical, outside all day and challenging.

While each step doesn´t take you very far, the collection at the end of a day gets you quite a few towns down the road. After a few days, you have done some mileage. The mechanics of the trip are about as easy as one could get, so there is lots of free time in your head to just let things lollygag their way thru.

I like this a lot. Life is good. (The horses below are alive...it is siesta time)